Ronda - Historic and Modern

Steeped in history, Ronda is home to some great restaurants and relaxing country house hotels, as Giles Brown reports

One of the most emblematic and dramatic destinations in Andalucia, Ronda is inextricably linked to the bullfight. In recent years, however, Ronda has also become a popular leisure destination, with a number of boutique hotels and a renowned Michelin starred restaurant. But if you?re going to start with Ronda, it?s best to start with the bulls. The town boasts one of the oldest bullrings in Spain, dating from 1785 and is where Pedro Romero, the legendary matador, climbed down from his horse to fight the bull on foot, marking the start of modern bullfighting (His costumes can be admired in the bullring?s museum) During the Feria de Pedro Romero in the second week of September, the Corridas Goyescas ? named after the famous painter - with participants in century-old costumes attract enthusiasts from all over Spain. Orson Welles and Ernest Hemmingway were frequent visitors, and Ronda comes alive with a weeklong pageant of song, dance, food, and beautiful costumes and, of course, bullfighting. Highlights include the Flamenco Singing Festival and the International Music and Dancing Festival and also the presentation of the ?Ladies of the Goyesca? who look stunning in their incredible clothing, wearing ornate dresses and mantillas (traditional Spanish head-dresses).

The nearby Plaza de Espana is the natural centre of Ronda, the home of the Oficina de Turismo as well as a Parador de Turismo, a state-run luxury hotel. One particular attraction is in a class by itself. That?s the New Bridge, Puente Nuevo, dating from 1793 and the landmark of Ronda, linking this new part of town and the old town, La Ciudad. The river 98 meters below, Guadalevin, flows slowly at this point but has in the course of time created the Tajo de Ronda, an awe-inspiring gorge with dramatically steep walls. Be care if you take a photo. More than one tourist has slipped and plummeted to their deaths below over the years. Close to the bridge is the district of Padre Jesus, dominated by a Gothic-Renaissance church bearing the same name, inside of which a much venerated sculpture resides when not participating in the Easter processions, Padre Jesus Nazareno. Grab a refreshing gulp of water from the local fountain, the famous Los Ocho Canos, before heading to the Old Bridge, Puente Viejo, which offers a view of yet another bridge, the Puente Arabe. As in many places in Andalucia the Moorish influence is strong here and the restored Banos Arabes? - the Arab Baths - runs a video show of Ronda?s Arab past, which was ended when the town was captured by the Christians in 1485. Further along is the Casa del Rey Moro, the House of the Moorish King, whose intimate garden colours, forms, smells, fountains and ponds create a combination regarded as a jewel in European gardening.

Ronda is also home to several unusual museums. The Museo Lara houses an extensive private collection of scientific and historical items, while the nearby Museo de Caza, a hunting museum, is best avoided if you are against blood sports. Perhaps the best-known museum in Ronda, however, is the El Museo del Bandolero, the bandit museum. The countryside around Ronda ? the Sierra de Ronda - was the home for many of Spain?s own ?Robin Hoods?, outlaws, smugglers, robbers, warriors and the occasional gentleman, and this colourful museum recounts their exploits, several of which are also immortalised in films and novels.

Back to the present day and the Sierra de Ronda, once the hideout of bandits, has now become the hideout of northern Europeans wanting to de-stress in one for the charming boutique hotels in the area. Among them is the Molino del Santo, close to the village of Benoj?n, which has an idyllic terrace under weeping willows by a rushing millstream. The Fuente de La Higuera hotel is another excellent destination, with a fantastic dining room and has a country house party type atmosphere, though those wanting quieter surrounds should head to The Lodge, a retreat within the hotel?s grounds.? El Juncal hotel just outside Ronda, with its modern interior is small but perfectly formed meanwhile and frequently features in style magazines? ?Hip Hotels? lists. In Ronda itself two restaurants stand out. Opposite the bullring, the Pedro Romero is a classic old style Spanish restaurant, where Hemmingway and Welles went to dine and drink with bullfighters such as legend Antonio Ordo?ez, and the walls are covered with bullfighting memorabilia. Ronda?s best restaurant is tucked away up a side street in the centre of town. Tragabuches is the best-known restaurant for miles around, a fact that is evidenced by its waiting list and its Michelin star. Named after yet another heroic bandit, Tragabuches represents Ronda ? a surprising blend of modern style and a historic past.

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The town boasts one of the oldest bullrings in Spain, dating from 1785.