
Nowhere in Spain celebrates the arrival of spring quite like Cordoba. Each year, the month of May sees this enchanting city come to life with huge bursts of colour, attracting crowds from across the country and even further afield. Ellie Bligh looks forward to the floral festivities.
It?s thought that Cordoba was once the largest city in Europe and possibly even the World. Today though, Cordoba is no match for Paris or New York and has settled for being one of the biggest cities in the Andalucia region of southern Spain. But that?s not to say Cordoba isn?t special in other ways. Home to over 325,000 inhabitants, the city is rich in culture and boasts extensive historical monuments and heritage as well as some impressive architecture.
The Romans were the first to inhabit Cordoba and later the Muslims. This is reflected throughout the city?s churches, homes and plazas, particularly in the old quarter. Homes are centered on inner courtyards, often with a fountain in the middle for collecting rainwater. Cordoba is famous for two different types of courtyards: the first is surrounded by a family home, where rooms are arranged around the courtyard that usually has arches as well as clay tiled or pebbled floors. The second type is called a casa de vecinos (neighbour?s house) where individual houses look out onto the same courtyard. Long balconies, staircases, clay roof tiles and wishing wells are not uncommon within this type of courtyard. Both, however, are filled with plants and flowers to give the feeling of a fresh, green haven away from the bustle of the city streets.
Much of Cordoba?s architecture has provided inspiration for its cultural events, particularly in the spring, when the city?s flowers are in bloom. For centuries, the people of Cordoba have gathered together for the most symbolical event of the year, Cruces de Mayo (Crosses of May). This is an annual festival in which each of Cordoba?s districts competes with one another for the most imaginatively decorated cross. Most are decorated with flowers, which feature heavily in the overall festival. There?s even a ?battle of the flowers? where processions of colour, music and dancing make their way around the streets of the city, both during the day and also in the evening. The competitions, based in the adjoining neighbourhoods of San Basilio, San Andres and San Agustin, are organised by the brotherhoods of Cordoba and each of these elect a judge to the panel in order to decide on the winner.
Running alongside Cordoba?s Crosses of May celebrations, is the world renowned Festival de los Patios (Courtyards Festival) that has been held annually since 1918. This is a unique opportunity for members of the public to step into the homes of local Cordovans to admire the plants and flowers they have been caring for all year long. Each individual (and often tiny) space perfectly captures the essence of Andaluc?an life.
Walking through these ancient living spaces provides a treat for all the senses. Sweet aromas fill the air as water trickles from graceful fountains, surrounded by petals and leaves of all colours, sizes and textures. This is not only a chance for you to enjoy the locals? geraniums, carnations, roses and a vast array of other flowers, but also a competition run by the Town Hall. The city?s homeowners decorate their homes and
outdoor spaces in the hope that theirs will outshine the rest and win a prestigious award. As well as the competition, each year sees a variety of performances by the popular Spanish singers and dancers. You can also expect barrel-loads of free-flowing sherry and an abundance of tapas and local delicacies to nibble on as you take in the sights and sounds of this traditional celebration.
The district best known for its creative offerings is Alcazar Viejo, although there are also impressive courtyards around the church of San Lorenzo as well as the areas close to La Magdelena, Mosque-Cathedral and the breathtaking Palacio de Viana, which has 12 different courtyards. To help you find your way around there are ?patio maps? listing all the courtyards in the festival available from many of the local businesses, as well as the Tourist Information Office.
Manuel Garrido Moreno of the Amigos de los Patios Association recently stated: "The Patio Festival is to Cordoba what the San Fermines is to Pamplona." Over the past 50 years, both the government and the private sector have made special efforts to preserve these beautiful private spaces, which are an integral part of the city's architectural and social heritage. Exploring Cordoba?s narrow streets and pretty plazas is delightful, as there are discoveries to be made around every corner. So if you love to travel, are fond of all things floral and in search of a truly authentic Spanish experience then this is the event for you, so make sure you don?t miss it.
The Cruces de Mayo takes place from April 29 ? May 3 , while the Festival de los Patios takes place May 6 ?17. Visit www.turismocordoba.org for further information