Featured Article - Winter Issue 2009 



The warmer days are on the way, so it?s the perfect time to explore the fantastic variety of beaches that Andalucia offers, as Piers Chandler reports.

Think that you know the coasts of Andalucia? Think again. Believe it or not the strip of sand that runs from Huelva in the west to Almeria in the east is as varied as. Andaluc?a itself. And don?t worry if you don?t want to don a bikini. We?ve picked out beaches that you can relax with a cool drink or enjoy some fabulous food, without having to change into your trunks.

You start at the Costa de la Luz the western part of the Andaluc?a coast. This is where the Atlantic meets Europe and clear water and white sandy beaches backed by sand dunes and pine trees make it one of the most beautiful places in Andalucia. Huelva and Cadiz are bisected by the Coto Donada national park which is completely unspoiled and home of the Iberian Lynx. Cadiz is a direct link back to Spain?s Golden Age, and Carnival in Cadiz is a riotous celebration. It doubled for Havana in Die Another Day, so if the sea off Cadiz is good enough for a bikinied Halle Barry to emerge from, it?s good enough for the rest of us. Close to Cadiz is Puerto de Santa Maria, famous for its shellfish and Chiclana, with its long white stretches of sand.

Continue further and you?ll reach Tarifa, whose strong winds make it a haven for kitesurfers. Sit on the walls of the old castle ? where Guzman El Bueno famously threw his own knife to the Moorish besiegers holding his son captive with the words "Better honour without a son, than a son with dishonour" (The son?s reply, unfortunately, was not captured for posterity) and you can look across to the car lights twinkling in Africa, some 14 kilometres away. Tarifa is famous for its hip, laid back lifestyle with boutique hotels, cafes and boho chic shops. Close by is the seaside village of Bolonia , a sweep of perfect white sand, clear ocean and the best mojitos this side of Cuba. Just be careful to avoid the nudist beach.

Skirt Algeciras ? trust me, you?ll be glad that you did - duck past the Rock of Gibraltar, and you?re on the Costa del Sol.

Sotogrande?s beach clubs are for the seriously wealthy and are where you?re likely to spot Prince Harry, Wills or, more likely, Fergie, but as you head towards Estepona, the beaches are a little more relaxed. Sonara Beach is a popular venue with frequent live bands, while Sharkey?s in Villacana is legendary among the expats for its Sunday sessions, where the late Mike Read was a regular. The Laguna Village beachside complex just outside Estepona, combines the Puro Beach club with a varied range of restaurants and fashionable boutiques, allowing you to sunbathe and shop.

Marbella established a more jet set reputation, which in the 70s attracted Sean

Connery, James Hunt, Grace Kelly and Rod Stewart to town, where the beautiful people did beautiful things to each other in the playboys? paradise of Puerto Banus and the Marbella Club Hotel. Recently Marbella has tried to capture a little of that retro style with opening of chic beach clubs such as Nikki Beach and Buddha Beach. Nikki Beach is part of a worldwide chain and calls itself "the sexiest place on Earth" so it attracts its fair share of visiting celebs. Nikki also hosts a variety of fashion shows, normally midweek, which is probably the best time to visit, as the weekends often feature the famous Champagne parties, where the crowd is young and "lively". Newcomer to the coast beach scene Buddha Beach certainly made an impact when it opened last year and quickly built up a loyal following of locals. The restaurant came in for particular praise as did the whole concept of "the boutique beach club" as well as the return of signer Mel Williams, whose own beach club in the 80s used to host regular jam sessions. Other legendary venues include Victor?s Beach, which is famous for its spare ribs and is a must visit location, as well as Pedro?s, famed for its laid back atmosphere.

Past Marbella the beaches of Capobino and Artola are unspoilt, while Bono?s Beach and the excellent restaurant the Beach House are well worth a visit and Rancho Cubano serves great cocktails and has an authentic South American vibe.

To say that tourism has changed the eastern Costa del Sol is like saying that oil changed the Gulf States, but instead of hitting oil, the Costa del Sol hit tourism. Sleepy fishing villages such as Torremolinos and Fuengirola were submerged under a concrete wave of new apartments and hotels from the late 60s on, some for better, some for worse. This is the home of the all day English breakfast, widescreen sports bar and Sunday Roast (even when the temperature is in the 40s). The fact that Fuengirola has a McDonalds on the beach just serves to underline the point.

But you?ll find some of the best chiriguitos here, packed with Spanish families at the weekend and the seafront in Torremolinos has a huge number of Dutch bars. Los Alamos beach has a laid back atmosphere with a couple of cool chiringuitos, and is popular with windsurfers. A kiteboarding friend informs me that "the thermal is metronomic in the summer!"

Whatever that means.

Although it boasts a Moorish heritage and fine art galleries (Pablo Picasso was born here and was Malaga's most famous son until Antonio Banderas became Zorro...) Malaga is better known as the entry point for millions of tourists each year who come to enjoy the Costa del Sol, although few tourists will take in the culture that Malaga has to offer, instead charging like lemmings to the beaches of Torremolinos, Fuengirola and Marbella. But it too has fantastic family run chringuitos and there?s also great windsurfing here.

Head east out of Malaga and as you drive along the Costa Tropical you?ll find yourself looking down on a variety of small bays and coves. Although less well known than its more popular neighbour, the Costa del Sol, the Costa Tropical still retains its Spanish character and has some spectacular cliffs. Maro, a secluded stone

beach under a cliff, close to Nerja is the best and has clear water for snorkelling. Almu??car boasts many attractive beaches (and a great Jazz Festival) while nearby is La Herradura, a popular watersports resort set in a secluded bay. With Granada and the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains only an hour or so drive away, the Costa Tropical enables you to enjoy the best of both worlds, skiing in the morning, then spending the afternoon on the beach.

East of Almeria the scenery changes as you get closer to the Cabo de Gata. This Nature Reserve has a long, rugged coastline with secluded bays and remote beaches, some linked only by a footpath. Much of the park is comprised of volcanic, rocky mountains that plunge directly to the shore, creating one of Andalucia?s most dramatic coastlines. The best known resorts on the Costa Almeria are Roquetas de Mar and Moj?car, which is popular with both foreign residents and the bucket and spade brigade, and marks the furthest limits of the Andalucian coast?s eastern borders.

   

 


 


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